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Cure Time vs Dry Time

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One of the first things our clients will ask us once we put on the last coat of finish is “When can we walk on the floors?” The next question that usually follows is, “When can we put the rugs and furniture back?”

Cure Time vs Dry Time

Good questions and ones that need a good answer.

Let’s have a look at each closer.

First we’ll start with…

Cure Time:

In a nutshell, cure time is the time it takes for all of the solvents or liquid carriers to evaporate from the finish, for the fumes and smell to stop being emitted and for it to fully harden.

This all depends on the type of finish system you choose as well as things like the temperature, airflow and humidity levels.

Below is a guide showing the average cure times for different finishes…

Floor Finish Cure Time

Once a floor has fully cured it can be subjected to long-term normal wear and tear without having to worry excessively about damaging it.

But cure time shouldn’t be used as a guide for when to move everything back into your home.

You don’t need to wait for a floor to cure 100% before you move back in and replace all your furniture and rugs. Your floors will be durable enough to move in way before the fully cured time.

As you can see from the chart above, that’s a good thing.

So when is the right time to move back in? Well that brings us to…

Dry Time:

Dry time is when you can put your hand to the floor and it won’t stick or leave a mark. It’s when a finish has dried and cured enough so that it won’t sustain any damage from carefully walking over it.

The chart below shows the average dry time for different finishes…

Floor Finish Dry Time

Dry time allows us to have access to the floors in-between coats. That’s how we can apply multiple coats in a few days. With water based finishes we can do 2 coats on the same day in some circumstances.

We suggest you ask your refinisher for ‘permission’ before walking on floors between coats though.

During this time floors are very susceptible to contaminants like outside dirt and oils stuck to the bottom of shoes and feet, to water and other liquids such as dog pee (don’t ask!) and to whatever else can be brought in and trampled over them.

If you don’t have to go on them until the finish application is completely done, then it’s definitely better not to.

After the final coat is completed, we strongly suggest that there is no traffic on the floors for a full 24 hours. This will allow the completed finish to dry sufficiently enough to allow walking on it without damaging it.

Applying Finish

Which brings us to the next obvious question…

When Can Rugs and Furniture be Put Back?

In an ideal world, we would love our clients to wait a week before replacing their furniture, but… we know that’s not always convenient or even possible.

The commercial grade water-based finish we use is 100% cured after just 3 days. Within 24 hours you can carefully put your furniture back. It’s the fastest curing waterborne floor finish we know of. Very handy for floors that need to be back in action very quickly.

The single component water-based finish we use is cured in 5 days. But it is also sufficiently cured and definitely dry enough after 24 hours to have light traffic on it, and to be able to carefully (there’s that word again) replace the furniture throughout the house.

The hardwax oil we recommend ( Pallmann Magic Oil ) is fully cured in 24 hours. It is the fastest natural cured site applied floor finish available.

We strongly recommend you put brand new felt pads on all furniture before they are set in place so as to protect your new investment. The old felt pads that may have been on there before could have picked up dust and small debris during the move that could scratch and damage the new finish.

Be extra careful with rolling and sliding chairs during the cure time too.

As far as area rugs go, we really would like to see a full week pass before they’re put down over newly refinished floors, (unless you go with the commercial grade Pall-X Gold system which is 3 days or Magic Oil which is 24 hours). This will give ample time for the solvents etc. in the finish to evaporate unencumbered and for the floor to cure.

Updated June 2020

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13 Comments

A common misconception when it comes to flooring and applying a floor sealer is that “ drying time ” and “ curing time ” are the same thing, but in fact these terms describe two different but equally essential processes.

Hello,

We just had our hardwood floors refinished and are planning to move the furniture back 3 days after the last water based polyurethane coat is applied. Can we use hand trucks on ram board covered floors to replace furniture with felt pads?

Hi Lisa,

Yes if done carefully I can’t see why not. We use an AirSled to move heavy furniture back but not everyone has access to one. Take your time, make sure the floor is super clean before laying the Ram Board down and use soft wheeled dollys vs hard wheeled ones if possible.

Good luck. Tadas

Tadas Sadunas,
First a confession…I’m a stalker of your hardwood floors. But alas, I live a 12 hour drive from your business! So no one has heard of Loba in Chattanooga, TN. I have white oak stair treads. I have heard the tannin pull on white oak is horrible. I have 2K Invisible Protect. Do I need to seal it with a primer (EasyPrime) first before I lay down the 2K Invisible Protect? Thanks for help and keep making beautiful art that people live on!! -Stephanie

Hi Stephanie,

I have a stalker! Lol. Yes prime it with EasyPrime first. Don’t water pop. then 2 coats of Invisible.

Tadas

is it ok to put cabinets and appliances into a new kitchne floor ten days after last oil poly layer was applied?

Hi Candy,

It will depend on the finish you used. But generally you should be OK if you’re very careful and they’re protected. 30-45 days would be better for oil poly to be fully cured.

There are products like the AirSled that can help in these situations as well, so the appliances aren’t being dragged across the new floors.

Tadas

I have recently re varnished my pub floor with yacht varnish how long before stools and chairs can be moved around without damaging the floor

Hi Barry,

Sorry just got to this now. The product you used should have the instructions for how long it will take to dry and then cure. Without the manufacturer information I’d just be giving it a wild guess sorry.

Tadas

My daughter had her wood floors in an older home sanded professionally.
They said they used 3 coats of polyurethane.
She has an older dog that had an accident on the floor and it wasn’t found for several hrs.
Evidently the urine had seeped through and darkened the wood and buckled it.
Before her floors were refinished she had never had that problem with dog urine.
It was always easy to see because it would puddle like water.
Not even water puddles but seeps in now.
You really can’t tell the floors have even been refinished now either. They no longer shine after a month of traffic
Is there a cure for the urine spot and how can she make her floors shine?
Thank you!

Hi Holly,

Most likely she will need to replace the damaged boards. Especially if they have darkened and discolored. Most of the time with big pet accidents, the urine seeps through the cracks and is wicked up through the wood. So the urine is all through it and can’t be sanded out.

Not sure what brand of finish the floor guys used, but it shouldn’t look bad and lose its sheen after only a month. Especially if they used a professional brand. Best bet would be to get the damaged area repaired and apply a new top coat in the sheen you want on top. Make sure the floor is thoroughly cleaned and properly prepared for a new coat, otherwise you could have adhesion issues.

Hope your daughter can get it sorted out.

Tadas

Hi! I’m currently refinishing a hardwood floor for a friends rental. I have it all sanded and filled and ready to seal and finish. They want to use a liquid wax based (i assume) floor finish called “Royal Ice” by wenco. And so my question is this…..what should I use to seal the wood prior to the liquid wax and how long do i have to wait for it to dry and cure before applying the liquid wax? Tenant is moving in a week or so and so I’m on major crunch time! Thank you for you help!!

Hi Eric,

I’ve never heard of this finish so i took a quick look. It’s designed for LVT and linoleum floors, not wood flooring. I wouldn’t recommend using this product. Go with a polyurethane type wood floor finish instead.

Tadas

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